The S5 mk 1 tips & tricks thread

[dirk]

The more I think about it, however, the more I believe than an fp-l would be a better second cam for me

What is your first camera then?

I thing the Sigma fpL is hard to beat, if you do not need an integrated EVF. And it is so small, that you can have it everywhere with you. 60MP at such a price is really seducing...

 

[GeorgeHudetz]

What is your first camera then?

I thing the Sigma fpL is hard to beat, if you do not need an integrated EVF. And it is so small, that you can have it everywhere with you. 60MP at such a price is really seducing...

As I see it right now, it would still be the S1RII. I actually like the in-hand feel of a full-sized body, and the S1RII is SO much more versatile than the fp. AF, mechanical shutter, wildlife, etc. What's in my head right now is that I would only use the fp for careful, slow landscape photography. I.e., put it on a tripod before sunset and watch the light change. But even then, it's an interesting question. Would I prefer the fp, for example, when wandering around Arches? Not sure. I'd almost certainly have both with me in the car. It's really nice to have access to both a tele and a standard zoom without having to change lenses.

I suppose I don't truly know the answer to that question until I have one in my hands. And, to all you snarky people out there, I know that an a7RV would have given me both. Anyway, it's an interesting question to ponder.

 

[AlanC]

The more I think about it, however, the more I believe than an fp-l would be a better second cam for me, for critical landscape.

I'm sure you know my opinion of the fp L by now... But if you can live with the limitations of no IBIS and a slow electronic shutter then it's hard to beat in terms of absolute image quality.

One potential issue, though, is the software used to process the DNGs. The fp L isn't particularly well supported and Capture One, in particular, does a bad job with the colours. See DPReview on the Sigma 16-28/2.8 where the camera was used to test the lens: the sky should not be that colour, and isn't in the DNG file's embedded preview. I'd suggest downloading some samples from DPReview and converting them in your software of choice to check that they're processed correctly.

 

[GeorgeHudetz]

I'm sure you know my opinion of the fp L by now... But if you can live with the limitations of no IBIS and a slow electronic shutter then it's hard to beat in terms of absolute image quality.

One potential issue, though, is the software used to process the DNGs. The fp L isn't particularly well supported and Capture One, in particular, does a bad job with the colours. See DPReview on the Sigma 16-28/2.8 where the camera was used to test the lens: the sky should not be that colour, and isn't in the DNG file's embedded preview. I'd suggest downloading some samples from DPReview and converting them in your software of choice to check that they're processed correctly.

Thanks. I am a Capture One user, so, hmmm. I'll certainly do more research if I get serious.

 

[Travis Butler]

I'm sure you know my opinion of the fp L by now... But if you can live with the limitations of no IBIS and a slow electronic shutter then it's hard to beat in terms of absolute image quality.

Heh. And mine as well, given how often I post from it vs the S5. I particularly like its performance in low-light indoor settings like museums, despite the lack of IBIS; I set the shutter speed floor to 1/60 and let the ISO float, and it generally does very well up to ISO 6400 (especially with the excellent noise reduction you can find these days.)

One potential issue, though, is the software used to process the DNGs. The fp L isn't particularly well supported and Capture One, in particular, does a bad job with the colours. See DPReview on the Sigma 16-28/2.8 where the camera was used to test the lens: the sky should not be that colour, and isn't in the DNG file's embedded preview. I'd suggest downloading some samples from DPReview and converting them in your software of choice to check that they're processed correctly.

That's interesting. I own Capture One 22, though I really haven't used it much in the last few years; there were some photos where it did a better job of RAW conversion than my main program On1 Photo Raw, and I would use it when On1 had an obvious issue, but that hasn't happened in quite some time. (Checking just now, looks like my last pic processed with it was 2022, so longer than I'd thought. ) So that pre-dates my use of the fp.

Just re-downloading it to check and see how well it does with my current fp pics. (My installed copy crashes instantly on launch.)

 

[Pete_W]

That's interesting. I was thinking of selling my S5, S1, and S1R to get an S5II, to compliment my S1RII. Mainly because I don't relish the thought of moving back & forth between two generations of the AF system. Of course, this depends greatly on usage patterns & personal preferences, but I do find myself really liking the new AF system, and I don't like having to remember to reset my usage patterns when I switch camera bodies. Unless it's a big switch, of course, like going to an Fp, BF, or something like that.

For a time I had the S5M2 and a GX85 as my small every-day carry and I did find the generational difference in the AF system and menus annoying. When I replaced the GX85 with the S9, the synergy was great. Essentially identical in the way they operate and they share batteries. I've found that so much better.

And, to all you snarky people out there, I know that an a7RV would have given me both.

Heh, they're all over in the DPR forum George!

p.s. @dirk - I think we've all polluted Markus's very good thread about S5 Tips & Tricks. Maybe a lot of these posts should be sliced out into a different thread?

 

[GeorgeHudetz]

Yes, perhaps splice it on to the end of Dirk's thread.

 

[Markuswelder]

Yes, perhaps splice it on to the end of Dirk's thread.

I'm personally not worried about it, but if management thinks it would be tidier to keep the thread a little bit cleaner and more concise, I'm not worried about going that route either

 

[GeorgeHudetz]

Hah! I figured you wouldn't shed any tears...

 

[dirk]

I have to look at it as soon as I have access to PC. On a smartphone this is a nightmare with so many postings.

 

[Markuswelder]

Right. Another little trick. This one's for those that insist on shooting everything -well, static subjects anyway, in AFC focus mode. And it involves using the AF point scope.
Dive into the menu, scroll down to the gear icon, across to the operation icon (the one with the half circle gear with the circular arrow around the top), then Fn Button Set.
Select Setting in REC mode, Function Button Set, and choose a function button you want to assign the Point Scope to. I chose the AF On button, as using the point scope requires you to hold the assigned button down while you press the shutter button. And the AF On button falls naturally to hand, as that's what Panasonic originally designed it to be used for. (And I never use the AF On button anyway.)
And bingo, you can now use AFC for shooting static subjects, because the camera drops back into AFS mode when it brings up the magnified AF point scope window. And for bonus points, get perfect focus, as it drops into the same, slightly slower focus drive mode that Pinpoint AF uses for best accuracy. Win win.
Yeah, I know, the complainers will still complain that this requires you to press two buttons rather than just the shutter release, but hey, pretty small sacrifice to make in the grand scheme of things right?

 

[Pete_W]

And just to add onto this part of your tip:

Dive into the menu, scroll down to the gear icon, across to the operation icon (the one with the half circle gear with the circular arrow around the top), then Fn Button Set.
Select Setting in REC mode, Function Button Set, and choose a function button you want to assign the Point Scope to.

The shortcut way to reassign a function button is to simply press and hold the button you want to reassign for a few seconds and it jumps straight into config mode.

 

[Markuswelder]

And just to add onto this part of your tip:

The shortcut way to reassign a function button is to simply press and hold the button you want to reassign for a few seconds and it jumps straight into config mode.

Tried that, didn't seem to work on that button. I seem to recall doing it that way before on other buttons, but not this time. No idea why.

 

[Pete_W]

Tried that, didn't seem to work on that button. I seem to recall doing it that way before on other buttons, but not this time. No idea why.

I just tried this on the S5M2 and you're right.

Weirdly, if I set the AF ON button to something else, then press and hold does work, but if it's set to the standard AF ON or AFL (which is what I have set) then press and hold doesn't work.

Same seems to apply to the three top buttons. Very curious behaviour.

 

[Markuswelder]

I just tried this on the S5M2 and you're right.

Weirdly, if I set the AF ON button to something else, then press and hold does work, but if it's set to the standard AF ON or AFL (which is what I have set) then press and hold doesn't work.

Same seems to apply to the three top buttons. Very curious behaviour.

He he he. Yeah, had me puzzled, I actually haven't tried assigning it (AF On) to anything else with the long press method after diving into the menu as yet, I'll give it a try and see what happens.

Edit -just checked, same behaviour. All a long press does is hold onto the point scope setting. I had a think about it, and I think I know why, it's for AF and sometimes you hold it down for a considerable length of time when tracking something, you don't want it jumping off into the custom menu while trying to take photos. Just my guess

 

[Pete_W]

He he he. Yeah, had me puzzled, I actually haven't tried assigning it (AF On) to anything else with the long press method after diving into the menu as yet, I'll give it a try and see what happens.

Edit -just checked, same behaviour. All a long press does is hold onto the point scope setting. I had a think about it, and I think I know why, it's for AF and sometimes you hold it down for a considerable length of time when tracking something, you don't want it jumping off into the custom menu while trying to take photos. Just my guess

Yes, that does make sense.

 

[Erik_A]

This video demonstrates how to use the Auto Focus modes on Lumix cameras (including the S5):

and another:


The "1-Area+ AF" mode on the Lumix S5 is a focus mode that combines the precision of a single area with the flexibility of a larger surrounding tracking area. It allows you to select a specific focus point (the "1-Area") while also enabling the camera to track and adjust focus based on subjects appearing in the wider surrounding area (the "+Area"). This can be useful for subjects that move or change positions within the frame, or for situations where you want to prioritize a specific area while still having the camera react to other relevant elements.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:

• 1-Area:
  You select a specific area of the frame where you want the camera to initially focus.
  
  
• +Area:
  The camera also monitors the surrounding area of the selected "1-Area". If a subject appears in the +Area (e.g., a person or animal), the camera will adjust focus to that subject, even if it's outside the initially selected 1-Area.
  
  
• Subject Tracking:
  The camera will continue to track and adjust focus on the recognized subject as long as it remains within the frame.
  

How to Use it:

1. Select the AF Mode: Access the AF mode settings in the camera menu.
   
   
2. Choose "1-Area+": Navigate to and select the "1-Area+" AF mode.
   
   
3. Set the AF Area: Use the joystick or touch screen to move and resize the 1-Area focus box.
   
   
4. Activate Subject Tracking: Ensure the camera is set to track subjects in the +Area, and optionally enable human/animal detection.
   
   
5. Shoot: The camera will focus on the initially selected area, but if a subject enters the +Area, it will switch focus to that subject.

 

[Markuswelder]

Right. The discussion in the S1R2 thread got me thinking about, and trying Custom modes again. Played around with them for a day, no dice. Still frustrating me.
So, I'm trying a step in the "more complex" direction, to actually make things simpler. One step back, to go forwards if you like.
Manual mode. Manual mode over the last few years seems to have incorporated a few automated features. Like Exposure Comp. And Auto ISO. Yeah I know. A bit of heresy to the full manual purists.
Anyway, I've embraced them both. Instead of trying to remember what settings I've set to C modes, as well as which ones the camera won't let me save and then having to adjust them anyway, or diving off into Q menus, what I've done is this. Manual mode, and Auto ISO. No p!$$ing around in Q menus trying to set or adjust minimum shutter speeds, just set the Aperture I desire for either the look I want to achieve, or available light, and adjust shutter speed. Done. Auto ISO ramps up (or down) to compensate for higher, or lower light. And if you like, you can even dial in a constant Exposure comp. I've tried it for a day, so far so good. Everything is now tied to top level physical dials/buttons/lever. I'll see how it pans out. I like things simple, basic and easy. I think I've found it.
Yeah, I know. This is not S5 classic exclusive. Just sharing ideas.

 

[Markuswelder]

So I've been trying out M mode for a few days now. Got to say I'm rather liking it. It's caused a couple of WTF moments when I've tried adjusting exposure via shutter the speed dial, and nothing happens. Ooooops. forgotten the Auto ISO setting
I also had another go at using C modes, keeping it real simple with just two different setups, both M & Auto ISO, one higher speed shutter, one lower speed and smaller aperture, still no love for it. I might try going back to just one, say F10 and a slow-ish shutter speed, just for landscape shots. We'll see

 

[CharlesH]

So I've been trying out M mode for a few days now. Got to say I'm rather liking it.

I almost always shoot with M. It probably comes from my video days where you don't want the exposure to change while you are shooting. Now and then I try to adapt to S or A for photos, but it usually doesn't go well. I do use M with Auto ISO for photos fairly often, but then I'm all over exposure comp to get what I want.