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Which do-it-all zoom lens?

Which do-it-all lens would you take as the only lens (S1Rii) on a hike or day out with the family?

  • Total voters
    15
Here's a few more, taken at night. You can still see detail inside of buildings, read the signage on the shopfront banners etc. Much nicer looking to my eye than just blown out patches of white. But that's just me. They're far from technically perfect, but I'm happy that they look pretty much like what I actually saw.
250502-P1026280-1600-PR.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5
  • 28.0-70.0 mm f/2.8
  • 70.0 mm
  • ƒ/2.8
  • 1/400 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • Auto exposure
  • -0.7
  • ISO 1600
250415-P1026004-1600.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5
  • 28 - 70mm F2.8 DG DN | Contemporary 021
  • 28.0 mm
  • ƒ/4
  • 1/30 sec
  • Pattern
  • Auto exposure
  • ISO 800
250502-P1026307-1600.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5
  • LUMIX S 18/F1.8
  • 18.0 mm
  • ƒ/2
  • 1/15 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • Auto exposure
  • -0.7
  • ISO 100
 
I don't ALWAYS shoot under exposed, I look at the conditions and adjust exposure accordingly. Here's a few I've over exposed by up to 1 1/3 stops, because the lighting was pretty flat & even. Read the conditions, adjust exposure to suit what I want to capture.
250429-P1026144-1600.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5
  • 18.0 mm
  • ƒ/10
  • 1/125 sec
  • Pattern
  • Auto exposure
  • 1
  • ISO 100
250429-P1026178-1600.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5
  • LUMIX S 18/F1.8
  • 18.0 mm
  • ƒ/10
  • 1/160 sec
  • Pattern
  • Auto exposure
  • 1.3
  • ISO 100


Out with my buddies :) (Excuse the soft, blurry looking patches here and there, was a bit of spray flying around getting all over my camera & lens. As well as me)
250429-P1026190-1600.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5
  • 18.0 mm
  • ƒ/10
  • 1/160 sec
  • Pattern
  • Auto exposure
  • 1
  • ISO 100
 
[ EDIT ] While I was preparing this post, a few new posts came along.
So some of the information in the newly posted images above seems to tie in with my explanation below.

Markuswelder said:
Even in daylight I generally shoot 1/3-2/3 stop under exposed, just to protect the highlights a bit
Click to expand...
I do recognise the idea of having more latitude in the highlights. By adding this correction, it do meet this idea more as for "JPG" output.
However using the RAW file output, by processing you do have much more latitude, to bring back the detail in highlights.

In cases of such big contrasts / dynamic range within a one exposure image, you absolutely have to discover the borders of the sensor possibilities
by what is possible to cover the full wide range, done by just one exposure.

So my way of exposure an image is "more to the right" - including the latitude of "RAW" data of an image already as a starting point.
So you do have more latitude "overall" as a base already to get better "blacks" / shadow detail - up to the utmost highlights.

More of this technique:
en.wikipedia.org

Exposing to the right - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
photographylife.com

Exposing to the Right Explained

Exposing to the right, or ETTR, is an approach to photography that is as helpful as it is controversial. On one hand, exposing to the right is yet another technique to remember while shooting, and it can potentially ruin your exposure if utilized incorrectly.
photographylife.com photographylife.com



Helpful in relation to it, histogram JPG versus RAW data:


Years back I was also intending to "under exposure" a little as a base setting. (Mostly my start was -1/3 EV ).
But often met problems at those shadow areas. By changing my workflow to "more to the right".
My overall quality has become better. (And of-course the most benefit by better sensor quality in first place and quality of software).

Today "mostly" I just start by "no" exposure compensation.
But of course there are also images where you do need some exposure compensation.

E.g. this example, I did use a +1/3 EV compensation.
Still (at about the borders) just "enough" highlight details of the daylight "outside" through the windows.

However not used a zoom lens:
Lumix S1R - Sigma 35mm F2 DG DN | Contemporary
1/50 sec - F 2.0 - ISO 1000

Most old "Beer house" - inn - cafe within the Netherlands. Since 1478
https://www.waagdoesburg.nl/en/

PANA5146_5_ɣ0.95_1600px.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S1R
  • Sigma 35mm F2 DG DN | C (L-Mount)
  • 35.0 mm
  • ƒ/2
  • 1/50 sec
  • Pattern
  • Manual exposure
  • 0.3
  • ISO 1000

-
 
Last edited:
Babylonia said:
[ EDIT ] While I was preparing this post, a few new posts came along.
So some of the information in the newly posted images above seems to tie in with my explanation below.


I do recognise the idea of having more latitude in the highlights. By adding this correction, it do meet this idea more as for "JPG" output.
However using the RAW file output, by processing you do have much more latitude, to bring back the detail in highlights.

In cases of such big contrasts / dynamic range within a one exposure image, you absolutely have to discover the borders of the sensor possibilities
by what is possible to cover the full wide range, done by just one exposure.

So my way of exposure an image is "more to the right" - including the latitude of "RAW" data of an image already as a starting point.
So you do have more latitude "overall" as a base already to get better "blacks" / shadow detail - up to the utmost highlights.

More of this technique:
en.wikipedia.org

Exposing to the right - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
photographylife.com

Exposing to the Right Explained

Exposing to the right, or ETTR, is an approach to photography that is as helpful as it is controversial. On one hand, exposing to the right is yet another technique to remember while shooting, and it can potentially ruin your exposure if utilized incorrectly.
photographylife.com photographylife.com



Helpful in relation to it, histogram JPG versus RAW data:


Years back I was also intending to "under exposure" a little as a base setting. (Mostly my start was -1/3 EV ).
But often met problems at those shadow areas. By changing my workflow to "more to the right".
My overall quality has become better. (And of-course the most benefit by better sensor quality in first place and quality of software).

Today "mostly" I just start by "no" exposure compensation.
But of course there are also images where you do need some exposure compensation.

E.g. this example, I did use a +1/3 EV compensation.
Still (at about the borders) just "enough" highlight details of the daylight "outside" through the windows.

However not used a zoom lens:
Lumix S1R - Sigma 35mm F2 DG DN | Contemporary
1/50 sec - F 2.0 - ISO 1000

Most old "Beer house" - inn - cafe within the Netherlands. Since 1478
https://www.waagdoesburg.nl/en/

View attachment 11628
Click to expand...


Babylonia said:
-
Click to expand...
Now go outside, at night, take some shots of moving subjects in the dark, with bright-ish backlight, and show us how you get on.
 
Markuswelder said:
Now go outside, at night, take some shots of moving subjects in the dark, with bright-ish backlight, and show us how you get on.
Click to expand...
Depends from the situation, and the intention what to achieve, by the subject.
Probably full manual exposure settings, and some test shots.

P1012351 1 sRGB_1080px-C.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S1R
  • 50mm F1.4 DG DN | Art 023
  • 50.0 mm
  • ƒ/4
  • 1/8 sec
  • Pattern
  • Manual exposure
  • 0.3
  • ISO 800

-
 
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